"What's the Chugoku Region?"

by Chris Keeffe

"What's the Chugoku region?" might more pertinently expressed as "where is the Chugoku region?" to expatriate readers, regardless if they are overseas or living in Japan. When I tell my foreign friends and business acquaintances that I have been living in Hiroshima for over eight years, their first reaction is surprise --mixed with a slight trace of bewilderment. Indeed, the Japanese-language homonym "Chugoku ()" that defines these five "in-between prefectures" in western Japan is also the same Kanji character for China. Chinese refer to their country as the "Middle Kingdom," referencing the imagery of existing somewhere between heaven and earth. The Chugoku region is perceived through a similar socio-economic lens; wedged between the economic powerhouses of Osaka in the Kansai region and Fukuoka in Kyushu, the region is often overlooked, deliberately derided, or simply relegated to second tier status. In many ways, the Chugoku region of Japan is like "the Middle Kingdom" to foreigners because it seems unknown, even remote, with the tragic exception of the city of Hiroshima. My personal opinion is that the region is a wonderful place to live and work, and has it own unique charms and advantages, some of which I hope to introduce to you in this essay. Accordingly, this article is written in an effort to introduce the Chugoku region to foreign nationals who know little about it, with particular reference to its physical and social attributes that may not be divined in the existing literature.

First off, this is emphatically not an article about foreigners' difficulties of integrating into Japanese society, of cultural divides, commercial or linguistic barriers, or similar social analysis. Nor is it a business-oriented document lauding the economic attributes of the area (you can find that elsewhere on this website). Rather, in a cursory way, I will describe some of the many wonderful cities and places that I have visited in this region, the things I do on a day-to-day basis to maintain my quality of life and happiness, and what I think are the leisure attractions of the five prefectures that comprise the Chugoku region that might be of interest to a foreign person. Am I qualified to do this? Well, I do not feel entitled to speak to the e-world on behalf of a region of 7.7 million people. So, please simply view the Chugoku region from the prism of my "gaijin eye" in terms of geography & location, lifestyle and other quality of life factors.

Location

Try and picture the entire Chugoku region as the long, thin tail of western Honshu with dimensions of approximately 360 km in length, and a width that varies between 50 km and 140 km. The region is basically split into two distinct geographical sub-regions by the Chugoku mountain range located in the middle. The northern part is called the "San-in" region and has less population and industry, as well as harsher winters, than the southern part, called the "San-yo" area. The San-yo side faces the Seto Inland Sea and has a relatively mild climate and calm seas, explaining the presence of comparatively large cities and the clusters of industry along the coastline. The two large cities of Okayama and Hiroshima are regional centers, and Shimonoseki is the major city in western Yamaguchi Prefecture.

The Kanmon Straits near Shimonoseki are a swift current that separates Kyushu from Honshu, and also are a key sea access point for ships coming from Asia to ports in the Seto Inland Sea (The city also has a wonderful aquarium that is well worth a visit.) Moving northeast, the northern coastal town of Hagi is interesting due to its historical roots as the flashpoint for angry samurai who ignited the Meiji Restoration; many of their dwellings are still a big tourism drawing point. Personally, I really enjoy the northern highway (Route 191) that links the prefectures; a new expressway is currently under construction that will make it even easier to get around when completed. The many smaller sized towns and cities along the northern coast hold a lot of discoveries for foreigners because they are not really covered very well by the travel literature I have seen. Hamada's nearby "Iwami Seaside Park" is very popular with foreign residents from Yamaguchi and Hiroshima escaping the summer heat and humidity of the Seto Inland Sea. The city of Izumo is host to one of Japan's most famous shrines (Izumo Taisha) and Matsue (Shimane Prefecture) boasts the region's only original castle as well as having hosted Mr. Lafcadio Hearn, an American writer, who lived there for over a year in the early 1890s. He wrote "Glimpses of an Unfamiliar Japan." one of the first attempts by a foreigner to try and explain Japan, and the Japanese, to a foreign audience.

As you move along the coast, the imperious Mt. Daisen soon occupies the horizon, with its challenging hiking and skiing trails. Finally, the large and quite unique Sand Dunes near Tottori City are worth a trip, especially in summertime, if for no other reason than to see the resident camels!

There are numerous attractive destinations along the southern Chugoku coastal area as well, such as: one of Japan's top three gardens (Korakuen, in Okayama) or perhaps taking a look at the massive bridges (Seto Ohashi near Okayama, or the Shimanamikaido Bridge near Onomichi) that connect the Chugoku region with Shikoku. The beauty of the Seto Inland Sea is punctuated by the many islands that dot the seascape, and this area hosts some of the country's most famous symbols. One such place is the island of Miyajima, one of Japan's "three most beautiful views" that features the Itsukushima Shrine (a United Nations World Heritage Site) and its famous red Torii gate. Kurashiki, near Okayama, is also popular among foreign residents because of its preserved quarter, a vestige of the Edo Era, with the world-class Ohara art gallery with quite a few celebrated works of Impressionist art. The list can go on, but what is worth noting is that for those foreigners who come to Chugoku to work, there are plenty of easily accessible places to enjoy outdoor activities and indulge in the region's history.

One of the things that I truly love about the Chugoku region is the plethora of great things to see and do in the area in my free time. The accessibility of the region is great: I can basically go anywhere I want to during a weekend jaunt by automobile (or motorcycle) without much strain due to the relatively smaller distances, less congestion on the highways, and very highly developed road system. I also should note that I have personally been to all of the places that I noted above, and I can say without hesitation that they are all worth a visit.

Lifestyle

What brings people to the Chugoku region from overseas? Primarily, work transfers and tourism. The majority of the population lives in the San-yo region and the majority of tourists stick to this area for transportation reasons. Of the 62,000 foreigners that are registered as residents in the Chugoku region's five prefectures, about 65% are from other Asian countries such as China and North and South Korea. For Westerners, it is primarily work that brings them here. Of course, only about 10% of foreigners (90% of Japan's registered foreign residents are from Asia or Latin America) in Japan are Westerners, but since this is an English-language Website, this article geared to this group.

Thus,I will now focus my comments on the city of Hiroshima for three reasons:1) It has the highest concentration of foreign residents in the region;2) it is considered the core city of the Chugoku region, the center of government, economic and culture in the Chugoku-Shikoku area; and 3) I live here and thus can offer up a few nuggets of hard-won firsthand experience.

So what is it like to live here? Hiroshima is the tenth largest city in Japan with a population of 1.1 million people. Usually for the better and sometimes for worse, it is not Tokyo or Osaka. Of course, the horrific aftermath of the atomic bombing of the city has indelibly marked the city forever, but it has also left a modern city that has been planned carefully with an eye to maintaining visual beauty and quality of life for its citizens. Hiroshima is a far more "green" city and has a lower population density than other large Japanese metropolises. You can feel the difference that more personal space creates, and there are also six rivers bisecting the cityscape and thus there are numerous riverbanks and bridges with sidewalks to enjoy. In the surrounding area, forests and mountains provide a quick escape to the countryside, or to the Seto Inland Sea. One of the reasons that I have stayed here so long is the fantastic access to both mountains and the ocean: by car, in 30 minutes you can reach the Chugoku mountain areas, the Seto Inland Sea is next door, and Japan Sea hot springs and beaches are within about 2 hours' drive. Japan is often perceived abroad as an industrial power with giant, congested cities. Hiroshima has most of the amenities that a foreigner needs for day-today happiness, but for me, the outdoor access is what maintains my quality of life.

Other things to considerc.

Hiroshima's downtown area has the usual government and business districts that are easily accessed by a very efficient public transportation system. Most of the suburbs are within one hour's commuting distance at their furthest point from the city center. Food prices are comparatively low and there are numerous medical and educational facilities. I would be remiss if I did not mention that the city does not offer the same level of international social infrastructure (services in languages other than Japanese, western-style housing, imported foods) that is possible in other urban centers with larger foreign resident populations. For educational needs, Hiroshima International School provides an international education in English from Grades 1-10, and a high school in the offing.

But for me, it's the intangibles that make the city a nice place to be: crime is not a problem at all compared to North American or European cities; public transit is prompt and punctual. People in Hiroshima and indeed throughout the region are very helpful to strangers, and frankly speaking, foreign residents are still treated with a respect that is founded on genuine curiousity because they are still relatively rare. Nevertheless, as Hiroshima gains stature as an international city in its own right, several foreign governments have established consulates or trade offices, and the United Nations has established honorary consulate and other offices here.

So, for a working person looking at a transfer to this area, there are a few things that are noteworthy. Hiroshima's foreign community is comparatively small, but the urban environment definitely offers a high quality of life and increasingly has the infrastructure necessary to conduct business globally, but without the congestion and high costs associated with traditional business centers in Japan. Support for internationalization among government agencies and corporations is stronger than ever. And for the daily necessities of life, those "must have" products from home are frequently available as more foreign affiliated stores establish stores here. What you can't buy directly, you can order through e-commerce and get delivered to your door. The language barrier is considerable, but those that make even a minimal effort to enable minor tasks often find their personal satisfaction levels to be quite high.

Hiroshima, and the Chugoku region in the larger context, are places that offer many rewards and, yes, a few challenges for foreigners. I have tried to offer a balanced view in this article depicting the many wonderful qualities and attractions that are here for someone who comes with an open mind and an adventurous spirit. But even for those who are interested in the region for other regions, there are things to do and see, and existing infrastructure, to accommodate the needs of a foreign person. As for me, I have chosen to live here because I consider it a place with a nice climate, with many nearby "getaway" destinations for fun or culture, and where I can pursue my work and in a creative and comfortable way.

Chris Keeffe
	Ex-manager, Foreign Business Placement & Promotion, Business Placement Promotion Division, Economic Affairs Bureau, City of Hiroshima He has lived and worked in Hiroshima since 1996.